another amazing morning with Ueda-san! surfing better than ever. 
and loving life better than ever!
Mayumi-san usually gets nervous when we paddle out, but after one wave like this, all the nerves are gone! 
you can see it in the smile. 
it’s unbelievable that Ueda-san was just going straight last year. now he’s taking off on his own and riding left, right, and both on the same wave. 
and also riding some big sets too! look at him go! 
as for Mayumi-san, she has no idea how big of waves she’s riding because i always tell her not to look behind. this was a big one! 
look at that big white wash coming down on her. so nice! 
Ueda-san making me the funny face. only a feeling a surfer experiences after a good ride. why we do it? because we’re stoked! 
and the smile continues.
great job! see you guys tomorrow for more wild surf and big smiles! 
then i had these kids from 12-6pm. the West wind was wild and strong, the waves were challenging and big, not to mention freezing cold, but they wanted to surf and surf. Niina-chan and Shuuto-kun amazed me today. photos coming tomorrow. going to dinner now with my Go-Naminori crew. i’m so tired, but never to tired to see them. have a wonderful evening!
