OMG, what a crazy day today with the wild winds. big waves, power outages, closed roads, falling trees, accidents, and flying debris. but first, going back to yesterdays crazy day!
Niina-chan is only 12 years old. took her surfing last year and she did good. this year, much better! a very shy girl, with a very bright lovely smile! Shuuto-kun is 17 years old. plays rugby and is very strong. after a few waves, his arms got tired. i asked him “which is harder? rugby or surfing?” he said “surfing.” haha. but this kid has a strong mind so tired arms didn’t stop him from surfing 3 rounds. i ask Shuuto-kun “what’s your dream?” he said “i want to be a police officer. Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara has crime and i want to catch the bad guys. my dream is for Kansai to have zero crime. JUSTICE IS IMPORTANT!” and this kid is only 17 years old??? very inspiring! i had chicken skin when he was telling me all this in English… the conditions was so wild! big waves, strong current, and hurricane winds. but Niina-chan kept calm and surfed beautifully. peace girl! keep on surfing and keep on smiling… 2 cousins from Kyoto. very smart, very calm, very energetic, and very bright futures ahead. good job kids! this is one if my favorite views in the world. from here, i can see straight out into the beautiful Pacific Ocean! West swell means perfectly long point right waves. keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
after surfing 6 rounds yesterday, i had a private meeting with my Go-Naminori crew. dinner, drinks, laughs, and funny stories all night. thanks guys and girls for the amazing time…