Justice is Important

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OMG, what a crazy day today with the wild winds.  big waves, power outages, closed roads, falling trees, accidents, and flying debris.   but first, going back to yesterdays crazy day!

 Niina-chan is only 12 years old.  took her surfing last year and she did good.  this year, much better!   a very shy girl, with a very bright lovely smile!   Shuuto-kun is 17 years old.  plays rugby and is very strong.  after a few waves, his arms got tired.  i asked him “which is harder?  rugby or surfing?”  he said “surfing.”  haha.   but this kid has a strong mind so tired arms didn’t stop him from surfing 3 rounds.   i ask Shuuto-kun “what’s your dream?”  he said “i want to be a police officer.  Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara has crime and i want to catch the bad guys.  my dream is for Kansai to have zero crime.  JUSTICE IS IMPORTANT!”  and this kid is only 17 years old???  very inspiring!  i had chicken skin when he was telling me all this in English… the conditions was so wild!  big waves, strong current, and hurricane winds.  but Niina-chan kept calm and surfed beautifully.   peace girl!  keep on surfing and keep on smiling… 2 cousins from Kyoto.  very smart, very calm, very energetic, and very bright futures ahead.  good job kids!   this is one if my favorite views in the world.  from here, i can see straight out into the beautiful Pacific Ocean!   West swell means perfectly long point right waves.  keep on surfing and keep on smiling!

after surfing 6 rounds yesterday, i had a private meeting with my Go-Naminori crew.  dinner, drinks, laughs, and funny stories all night.  thanks guys and girls for the amazing time…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide