the cold North winds must be keeping all the surfers indoors because the ocean is totally empty! Seira-chan and only one other guy out this morning. she was so lucky because the waves were so good again today! 
and when surfers tell me they don’t really like to go backside, i say “ok, we’re only going backside today.” improving your backside will make frontside surfing even better. 
nice backside off the lip girl! 
and when i coach kids, i pretty much let them do everything on their own. if i help them too much, i’m not doing them any good. when they learn on their own, they will never forget. Seira-chan will never forget how to jump in, and come back up from these rocks. 
4 days of Boot Camp and this girl is surfing 10x better already. i’m so excited to see how good she will get. 
straight to my favorite Pancake House for some hot chocolate loaded with whipped cream! the best after a cold surf! 
we ate so much and got so full after this! surf, eat, and sleep. the best lifestyle ever. peace!
