Surfing in Hawaii with Real Locals…

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 check out this house up my street!!!  it looks like a scene from a horror movie!   the whole ground is lifting up and the house is about to get swallowed into the earth!   there goes $1,000,000! Megan is Kelia’s best friend since they were babies.  i love this girl because she is real, and she is family.  if anybody makes trouble to Kelia, this girl will get in their face really fast.  and that’s if Kelia isn’t already in their face.  haha.   as they were waxing Megan’s new board, i could hear the girls arguing with each other on how to wax a board.  haha.   i asked Seira-chan if she wanted to go and paddle out as soon as we got there, or wait for slow pace Kelia to get ready and paddle out together.   what do you think she chose?   yeah, to paddle out together with local surfers, including the 2x World Champion isn’t something you can do often.  so you may as well enjoy the moment!   and Seira-chan is enjoying that moment to the fullest…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide