Subway Surfer

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Chiyoko-san only surfs once a year when she comes to Hawaii. this morning she was surfing so good so i asked her how she got better. she told me that every morning when she takes the subway to work, she’s surfing in her mind. Subway surfer!!! haha…
this is subway image training at it’s finest! so perfect!
it was raining all morning but the waves were absolutely perfect! i was image training myself trying to get barreled!
there were only a few of us surfers out this morning because of the rain. that’s exactly how i like it!
and when you have a warm Dove wetsuit, you can’t feel the chill like everybody else. thank you Chiyoko-san for the wonderful surf session. and thank you also for translating my blogs. peace and aloha!
then went to eat Pho for the first time with the Tanaka-san family. warm meal and warm hearts. so happy to see you guys again!
then went surfing at Bowls with Seira-chan this afternoon. guess what? nobody out!!! it was only us and the fishes. and the good waves!
drove out to Wahiawa to pick up a board, then back to town in the heaviest traffic. took 2.5 hours!

then went to look at Diamond Head on the way home this evening. waves were good, but wetsuit and trucks were soaking cold and wet. omg!
but when somebody lends you a new foil board, you’d do anything to get into the ocean. wet and cold, i went anyway. and ended up having the happiest foiling session!
driving home thinking to myself “wow, what a beautiful day that just passed!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
 https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide