See the Fish?

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    i was checking the ocean all day long and when i saw the sky turn blue, i knew the wind will turn offshore and the waves will get good. so i texted Seira-chan “get ready, let’s go!” soon after, she was on her first wave…
    very smooth and nice surfing.
    when the waves get onshore, nobody surfs Bowls. but when the winds turn offshore, the waves get really good and still nobody surfs Bowls because they are probably working. haha. we had the whole lineup to ourselves for 2 hours. so lucky!
    then the school of Omilu swim right under me. they were huge! happy to see them again…
    imagine coming to Hawaii and surfing one of the most localized and crowded spot on the South Shore all to yourself? either this girl is super lucky, or this girl is super lucky. surfing Bowls with nobody out for 2 hours like this is unheard of…
    now that Seira-chan has her frontside cutbacks down, she’s now practicing on the backside ones.
    once again, perfect form…
    so nice! after we went in, Seira-chan was disappointed in her surfing because she felt like she could have done better. here’s what i think “of course we can all do better, but there is tomorrow for that. and that’s something to look forward too!”
    KIRBY FUKUNAGA
    ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
    カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
     https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide