Seven Hours/Day

183

had a great time with the Kobe boys this morning!  getting warm again and waves so fun!

Sakamoto-san is a super cool guy.  he’s been surfing for a long time so we know a lot of the same people.  good surfer too!

it was Kawasaki-san’s surfing debut!  he was a bit nervous until he caught  this very first wave of his life!

he was so happy, and i was so happy for him!

surfing into Diamond Head, look at Sakamoto-san ride this perfect wave!

then Kawasaki-san started surfing on his own.  after our surf, he said his home surf break is Hawaii.  haha!

surfing so smooth and riding some nice Ala Moana Bowls waves…

some hot pho for lunch.

thank you boys for the awesome morning!

finally the winds turned more out of the East today so it was much much warmer.  and much more enjoyable…

then straight to pick up Hattori-san for some peaceful afternoon surf.  where is everybody???

surfing super good once again.  i’m so happy to see amazing rides like this…

can you believe it’s mid-winter in Hawaii now?  today felt like Summer!  thank you Hattori-san for the endless summer session.

then went back out for another session in the evening with Seira-chan.  i surfed 3 rounds totaling 7 hours!  i might be super burnt now, but i’m super happy to.  and that’s all that matters.  tomorrow another marathon surfing day.  goodnight for now…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide