Hawaii: One Malasada for One Hour

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 Seira-chan is a Kelia Moniz big fan so it was her dream to meet her.   that happened 3x already.  so today, i got some Kelia Moniz longboards together and had a dream session.   take your pick!   Seira-chan totally connected on this one.  very confident and surfing so gracefully.   and walking the board is getting very natural for her.  had a long amazing session this morning.

so fun riding the world champions boards!   then some poke for lunch.  Seira-chan’s first time at Ono Seafood…  then her first time eating malasadas…  so sweet!  Leonards was very busy today.  Seira-chan was waiting in the long line and i was guarding the precious cargo.   have you ever seen Leonards like this?  i’ve never!  the line around the corner and the wait for a single malasada was over an hour!   we get back in the car, Seira-chan tells me her dream of riding Kelia’s board came true, her dream of eating Ono Seafood came true, and her dream of eating Leonards came true.  she was so happy that 10 seconds after she said that, she fell asleep.  haha.  she said it was a happy sleep… then round 2 at Bowls.  the waves were super perfect for long boarding.   and when you have perfect waves and a perfect long board, life is perfect.  making other people dreams come true is my dream come true too.  sounds weird, but i’ve always been a big dreamer so i know how it feels to live out something you’ve been dreaming for years.  and it’s a great feeling! just ask this girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide