Big Wednesday: The Time has Come!

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 on the way to the North Shore, i took Seira-chan to my favorite pastry shop!   she told me that her favorite dessert was the malasada we ate yesterday.  i told her wait till you try this!   and now, her favorite is these snow puffs!   pulled up to Laniakea and seen some solid overhead sets.  i didn’t want to make Seira-chan nervous so i told her it was small.  haha… i’ve been teaching Seira-chan that fear will control your mind and body.  so instead of fear controlling you, you have to control your fear.  and this is what she was trying to do right when we got out.  i could just see it in her face… then when i say “go”  this girl goes!!!  well trained!  haha… this was Seira-chan’s very first wave on the North Shore of Hawaii!!!  i was so happy to capture this precious moment!!!   it took us 3 weeks of training to get to this level, and now we’re here!  congratulations girl!   when you can finally control your fear, your life will never be the same.  in the water, and out of the water.  a very bright future ahead… then we drove around the whole island checking out all the waves.   Ehukai Beach looked fun but Laniakea was way bigger and better.  more photos coming later…last stop was at Waiola Shave Ice.  we were the only ones there eating our shave ice in the rain!  haha..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide