Lilikoi Turtle Butter

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 the first few days Seira-chan came to Hawaii, i would point out fish, whales, and turtles to her.  it would be right in front of her, but she couldn’t see any of them.  that’s because her focus was too narrow.  now that it’s much wider, she can see everything!   so now, she’s pointing out the fish, whales, and turtles to me.  just like this one at Laniakea… it was very cold, raining, and dark, but when your heart is beating, your body warms up very fast.  imagine surfing the North Shore for your first time in these dark conditions and trying to keep calm.   it’s not that easy… watching Seira-chan riding wave after wave surfing right by me was a treat.  she looked so comfortable, confident, and cool.  as a surf coach, this a dream to me… smartness and coolness can get you very far in life.  this girl has both of it… last week, Seira-chan told me she had good garlic shrimp at Ala Moana Center.  really?   i felt a little sorry for her so going to Romy’s was on my list.  finally, the day has come!    i don’t think she will ever eat Garlic Shrimp anywhere else but Romy’s from now on.  the best in Hawaii!   passed by Kahana Bay.  tiny waves so we just watched some of the North Shore boys foiling… then stopped by Waimanalo to pick up some delicious Lilikoi Butter!  homemade with love… then stopped by to one of my favorite beachfront views on the island.   then to Sandy Beach where i use to ride my bicycle to every morning before school to bodysurf the shore break.  then to the best shave ice on the island.  a full circle island tour with lots of good waves, good food, and good vibes.  thank you again Seira-chan for the wonderful day…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide