What is Sweetness?

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 it was one month ago when i was surfing out Diamond Head and had a rare occurrence of seeing Kelia out there. look at Kelia walking the nose while Seira-chan is duck diving.   yeah, it was Seira-chan’s first day in Hawaii and this session wasn’t even supposed to happen because we were supposed to start surfing the following day.  but it did happen.  so yeah, everything happens for a reason and i’m a true believer of that. gosh, i didn’t realize how dark i was until Seira-chan sent me this photo.  haha.   Romy’s Prawns.  the best in the world!   and sweet snow puffs!  speaking of sweet, i just wanted to say a few things about Seira-chan.  she’s 19 years old and going to college.  very smart, and very focused.   it’s her first travel experience on her own and she’s proven that she can do it.  she has many goals and many dreams.  she’s talented enough to excel in everything she chooses to do.  for the past month, i seen her transform into an experienced surfer with lots of confidence.  she knows how to keep calm and adapt to any types of conditions.  she knows about the waves, and about the surfboards.  that’s very impressive.  BUT, what’s more impressive is her personality.  one of the sweetest girls you will ever meet.  always so thankful, always go grateful, always so appreciative, and always so smiling.  it was a joyful month for me to see all the progression.   thank you Seira-chan for being a sweet girl with lots of ambition.  you have an amazing life ahead!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide