Best Photo of the Century

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 had a great time driving around the East side of the island.  always so beautiful!   we stopped at places to just sit on the beach and relax.  why not right?  then watched this Hawaiian monk seal swimming around with the surfers.   then went to pick up some special order Lilikoi Butter.  the best ever!   i have no idea how Asayama-san is going to take all this back to Japan??? then stopped by my power spot.  as much as this spot gives me power, it also takes so many lives.  the ocean looks deceiving until it wakes up.  so when we pulled up and i saw tourists swimming that shouldn’t be there in the ocean, i told Asayama-san to just watch carefully.   i already knew they were in trouble and would have a hard time getting back up.  like always, i just watch until i really have to jump in and help.   i seen 2 ladies with total fear on their face.  i knew they were about to panic so i told Asayama-san to watch their face.  it’s the face of fearing death.  wide open blood shot eyes, heavy breathing, and body frozen from fear.   after he saw it with his own eyes, i told him “hey, that’s how you use to look at waist high Bowls.  now you know what you looked like.  and now you know what not to do, which is to panic…”   he totally understood…  it could have been a tragic day for these tourists.  there are no lifeguards here so if it wasn’t for the 5 guys that helped them up, they might have been sent back to the mainland in bodybags.  it’s happened way too many times here.   look at this amazing photo!!!  it has to be the most beautiful photo i’ve ever seen.  this young kid Leroy Bellet actually takes off behind with his camera and shoots from deeper in the barrel.  something like this takes freaking commitment and skill.  and something like this is what i want to do myself, but from my foil!   now i have a new dream so don’t be surprised if you see me behind you with my foil.  and please don’t fall or else that dream will turn into a nightmare…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide