Feel the Mana!

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 taking a tiny airplane ride over the islands is a treat.  you can see things from above that will change you’re whole perspective on Hawaii.  absolutely breathtaking!!! when there is a medium North/West swell with perfect winds in the forecast, forget the dive gear, let’s load up the surfboards.  but as for this topic, this will be the last time you will hear anything about surfing.  it’s just too sacred to share.   what ever happens is just etched into our minds forever.  this is old school style… every time we go for a drive, we don’t have to worry about any kind of traffic.  this is as calm as an island can ever be… i was explaining to Asayama-san that this is one place in the world where you can’t do anything stupid.  and if you do, you won’t ever be welcomed back.  it’s all about respecting the people, the culture, and the “mana,” which means “power.”   and you could feel the “mana” in the air… this is not considered stupid.  this is just one very happy man jumping for joy!   haha… and the food is Hawaiian style portions.  stir fry steak for one… and pork chop with mushroom gravy for one.  if you can finish this plate, you won’t need food for another 24 hours. like i said before, this is where you inhale some of the cleanest air in the world…another day has passed for us, and all we do is look forward to what tomorrow brings.  this is the simple lifestyle i love so much…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide