A perfect backside bottom turn…

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana knee high and super high tide morning.
Diamond Head waist high and bump.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

I was so excited that the waves finally got small and the tide was super high in the morning.  I was waiting for this day because I wanted to foil really bad.  And today was that perfect day for that!  Epic conditions, king high tide, and knee high waves that will make you fly like a bird!

It’s been so long but I still can foil!  And the feeling of going so fast and feeling so free is amazing.  It’s also the best workout in the world.  When I came in, I was so exhausted, so content, and so happy.  And it was still 7:30am?

Like most surfers, I was once hooked on golfing.  But when I started wishing the waves were junk so I could go golf with the boys, I knew it was time to quit.  These clubs were under my house for decades and are probably collector items.  Haha.  I just threw it away in the trash and don’t regret a thing.  My dream of a “hole in one” came true so I’ll never look back…

It’s been a very long time! Today was the perfect day to foil…