Being that we are 4th and 5th generation full blooded Japanese, we were always curious of our ancestors religion and beliefs.  Buddhism was their religion so we experienced a little of it here and there growing up in Hawaii.  I would remember my Grandparents taking us to the temples here in Hawaii when we were kids.  But this recent experience of a formal Buddhist ceremony was different.  It was so real.  So real that we’ve been talking about it everyday since.  And everyday since, I’ve been studying more and more about it.  And will continue to so I can better understand our ancestors religion and beliefs…

“Even death is not to be feared by one who has lived wisely.”

Diamond Head good everyday…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 4-8′ and good.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and onshore.
Diamond Head chest high and onshore.
South winds at 10mph.
Sun, clouds, and warm day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We weren’t really expecting Bowls to be this good in the morning.  The West swell wrapped into town and with the clean conditions, it was pretty dam good.  It was so good that I couldn’t find my student all morning.  She was riding wave after wave after wave.  

Eddie on a clean perfect one.  We surfed Bowls for 2 hours and after went to check out a secret spot nearby.  OMG, three times bigger and three times better.  Everyone was saying it was as good as it gets.  I caught some of my best waves of the year so far.  Locals only and no photos allowed.  But just let me say this, “it was as good as it gets.  And I’ve been surfing out there for 37 years!”  

We were so hungry after surf so went hunting for a big plate lunch.  Found a new restaurant with the best big plate lunch.  I ordered the meat jun and special poke.  This is now my favorite!  

Then to cool the day off with a nice mango smoothie.  We were in the water for 5 hours this morning.  Totally sunburnt, tired, but super content.  I was home at 1pm, turned on a movie, and slept like a baby all afternoon.  It’s only 7pm and back to bed.  Tomorrow is another day of searching for the perfect wave.  Goodnight.