The cool beautiful mornings continue…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 6-8′ and getting bigger. 15′ tomorrow.
Ala Moana almost flat.
Diamond Head knee high.
Trade winds at 15mph today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Spent Christmas eve with the family.  Just sitting back and watching the kids grow.  They run, the fall, they laugh, they cry, and they do things normal kids aren’t allowed to do.  I get nervous watching them.  

This man just got off the airplane and 2 hours later we headed straight to the North shore.  A building swell and nice conditions.  Haleiwa was super fun and not too crowded.  I could see the calmness, I could see the confidence, and I could see some amazing rides from this Okinawan.  Haleiwa sent him some great Christmas waves!  Boot camp starts…

Merry Christmas to You!

Good morning 5am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds today so nice conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a Merry Merry Christmas Day!