Takahashi-san sent me this beautiful sunset photo.  He saw a monk seal on the beach with red skies above.  Nice!

Got up early this morning and was so excited to get into the ocean.

Jeannie Chesser out surfing the perfect conditions.

I just foiled in Indonesia and Japan so I realized how good Bowls actually is.  You can pump into 10 waves at a time if you don’t get a heart attack.  Probably 20 waves if I was younger.  Haha.

This was the best workout I’ve had in months.  Doing surfing turns while burning calories is a very productive session.  Now I feel healthy and free again!

My friend painted my motor covers while I was gone.  He did an excellent job.  Looks brand new!

I took Mayuki out to sea and went full throttle.  Feeling the speed, the fresh air in my face, and the sense of FREEDOM!

Two months ago, I tore my MCL.  It was my first knee injury and I haven’t felt pain like that before.  Every step I took hurt.  My doctor gave me the bad news that I won’t be surfing for months.  I was in total denial and all I was thinking about was my Indo surf trip.  No way was I going to miss that.  To start, I had to wear this brace for 3 weeks 24/7, even when I was sleeping!  

I understood that doctors base their observations on an average person, but surfers aren’t average people.  Two months out of the ocean wasn’t an option.  I was determined to get back into the water as soon as possible.  I did a lot of physical therapy on my own.  It hurt, but no pain is no gain.    

When you’re in the ocean, you feel no pain.  And when you’re in the barrel, all you feel is joy.  Right after this wave, I felt all the pain again.  OUCH!  But it was all worth it.

Now it’s 2 months after the injury and I’m at 90%.  Almost ready for Backdoor!

Matsu @ Supersuck…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so really good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!