Ben Aipa always trained me at Diamond Head.  It’s a lot windier and a lot more challenging than Ala Moana.  He use to always tell me “If you can surf Diamond Head, you will learn more about the waves, tides, winds, currents, and ocean.  And once you can feel comfortable and can surf Diamond Head well, you can surf anywhere else.”   I didn’t understand it too well back then, but I sure do now…

So we’ve been training hard at Diamond Head.  The girls use to be lost out there, but not anymore.   And when we go to Ala Moana, it’s pretty easy for them.

Above us only sky…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamoand Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Dawn patrol this morning.  Kind of hard to enjoy life knowing what just happened on Maui.  It’s so heartbreaking.  I was looking up to the sky hoping for the best.

The waves came up today.  Maybe from the Hurricane that just passed South of us? 

Not too crowded and lots of waves. 

Good calm rides all morning.

Gosh, I had one of the worst wipeouts in a long time.

Spent the afternoon doing big wave Boot Camp.

Pray for Maui…