Work in progress…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Early morning surf today was pretty epic.  Nice waves and perfect conditions.

Calmer and a lot more confident.  This is how to be present.

Amazing view getting ready for the turn.

Splash!  This is what I like to see from behind the wave.

I picked some gardenias off my plant yesterday in the evening.  Put them in a vase, and let it sweeten up my house.

When I woke up this morning, all I could smell was sweetness.

While the girls were having this spot all to themselves, I was watching from the boat.  I almost didn’t want to join them because they were doing fine.  Surfing, laughing, cheering each other, and giggling.  In surfing terms, we call that “frothing.”  Then I paddle out to join them and the laughing and giggling stopped because I started scolding them.  Boot Camp was ON!  

It was nice to dry out Mayuki because everything was soaking wet.  Now she’s warm and dry again.  

Looking into the mountains on the outer islands, all you see is green.  Then when you come back to Oahu, all you see is hundreds of houses on the mountains.  That’s when all my wonderful feelings return to reality.  

This was the best shot I took of the last swell.  It was the biggest day and this girl was charging.  I hope the next swell is bigger because the girls are ready!