Winter in a Bikini…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore BIG! 10′ and coming up to 20′ by this afternoon.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds this morning becoming stronger North/East winds.
Cool morning becoming a warm and sunny day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Yesterday morning was amazing!  We drove to the East side to watch the sunrise while getting barreled.  First the sunrise. 

Then the barrels.  The waves were super perfect again and nobody was out!  My student couldn’t believe we surfed 3 sessions and nobody was out.  I told him “If you ever tell anyone about this spot, I will never take you surfing and I will never talk to you again.”   He was laughing but I was serious.  I really felt like I was on a surf trip for the past 3 days.  It was so peaceful and relaxing to ride any wave you chose.  

If you’re looking for the barrel, you better expect very shallow water.  When I sat on my board in the inside, my feet were scraping the reef.  

This man is a brand new surfer!  Better surfing, good style, and a magic board that changed his life…

We stayed out yesterday until the sun burnt our faces.  It was so hard to go in knowing the conditions were this perfect. 

Then guess what?  We went again this morning!!!!  Surfing on the East side of the island is a very far drive and a huge gamble.  BUT, it’s worth it when the waves are good, the conditions are epic, and the sunrise is right in front of your face!  Maybe tomorrow again?  I hope so.

Now I’m home experimenting with a new recipe for shoyu chicken.  My mouth is watering just looking at it marinate.

By the way, the Eddie Aikau WON’T go tomorrow.  The swell is a little late and the winds will be bad.  Bummer…

So far this year, I surfed 18 rounds and rode 9 different surfboards.  Today will be my 19th and 20th round and I feel so good!

I jumped back on a couple of my twin fins because I wanted to surf faster.  It’s so cool how each and every surfboard looks the same, but rides totally different.  The way it paddles, the way it cuts through the water, and the way it flows changes by every single millimeter.  I’ve also been teaching my students where your foot placement should be.  As you can see, my front foot is right in the center of the surfboard, and my foot is angled 45 degrees.  That’s where you want it for stability and maneuverability.  

Then my back foot is on the tail right above the back fins.  That’s where you want it so your board will turn easier.  And if you push it had like a gas pedal, you will accelerate and leave a beautiful spray behind.  That’s the goal so go try it today!