Sunrise Hawaii…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Paddling out early this morning and paddling in around lunch time.  We surfed for 5 hours which was my longest session in 5 years.  I didn’t know I could still surf for that long.  Haha.

The waves were still big so Yui-san was a little nervous paddling out.  But after a few waves, the nerves went away and the nice bottom turns begun.

The best view in Hawaii!  Awesome surfing!

Takei-san is a very good surfer.  We haven’t surfed together for 5 years so I forgot how long he likes to stay out in the ocean.  5 hours later, he still wanted to ride more waves.

I think Takei-san caught 40 waves today?  Wave after wave after wave.  After the 4th hour, I was dehydrated, sunburnt, thirsty, and delirious.  Takai-san kept on going and going.  If I didn’t say it’s time to go in, I think we’d still be out there now.

A Fancy Fresh fruit mango/strawberry smoothie refilled my energy tank.  And a 3 hour nap when I got home.  Now I’m up getting ready for sleep because tomorrow I foresee another very long day.  Going to surf all day everyday while this South swell lasts.  Good night!