After coming back from an amazing North Shore morning session, we went to paddle out to Bowls.  And I was surprised to see a rare South swell!  The waves were chest high and super good in the afternoon!  I had my red magic board so I knew it would be fun. 

Fukuyama-san is visiting from Okinawa so it was nice to surf with an island boy.  He must have caught 20 long waves.  Super cool and calm. 

This was the best day at Bowls in a while.  Lots of waves and lots of surfing.  Love this view… 

I finally feel at a place where I can say I have so many magic boards.  From foil boards to longboards to shortboards to everything.  I have magic for every kind of conditions.  This 6’8 is just one of many…

Thank you Fukuyama-san for the amazing surf session.  Hope to surf with you again!

Only a surfer knows the feeling…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds this morning becoming stronger later.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I think I’m addicted again!!!  I woke up at 2:30am this morning and drove out to the North shore in the dark.  I knew it was going to be good!  Before I paddled out, I told myself “ok, just get one good one today and let’s go home.”

I caught 4 waves before this one showed up.  When I paddled for it, I knew I was getting barreled.  The takeoff was hard and steep, but the rest was easy.  Here I’m taking my time trying to slow down and even dragging my hand.  You don’t want to go too fast or you’ll miss the barrel.

Then I pull up on the middle of the face, do a little check turn, put all my weight on my back foot to stop the board from going too fast.  It’s like hitting the brakes while driving.  So basically you’re parking yourself in the barrel. 

Then once I’m in the barrel, I put my back foot on the gas pedal and look towards the end of the tunnel.   

This is where it gets loud, dark, but yet so peaceful.  Time stands still so I have time to think “either exit the barrel, or fall and smash the reef.”  But then the lip gets smaller and smaller.  OMG!  Now it’s time to be calm, confident, and hold on for my life.

Thank goodness for my morning squats and lunges because this is a lot of weight falling on my head.  This is called busting down the door.

And thank goodness for my morning yoga routine because balance is everything.  This is called a one hand peacock yoga pose.  Haha.

I was in disbelief that I made that so had to put my windshield wipers on to clear my eyes from all that water.  

Then I said to myself “wow, that was my best wave of 2022 and there’s only 2 days left.  Really?”

Then like I promised myself, I came in and called it a day.  I was back in town by 8:30am.  Of course, smiling all the way…

Today was one of the happiest days of my life!