I think I’m addicted again!!!  I woke up at 2:30am this morning and drove out to the North shore in the dark.  I knew it was going to be good!  Before I paddled out, I told myself “ok, just get one good one today and let’s go home.”

I caught 4 waves before this one showed up.  When I paddled for it, I knew I was getting barreled.  The takeoff was hard and steep, but the rest was easy.  Here I’m taking my time trying to slow down and even dragging my hand.  You don’t want to go too fast or you’ll miss the barrel.

Then I pull up on the middle of the face, do a little check turn, put all my weight on my back foot to stop the board from going too fast.  It’s like hitting the brakes while driving.  So basically you’re parking yourself in the barrel. 

Then once I’m in the barrel, I put my back foot on the gas pedal and look towards the end of the tunnel.   

This is where it gets loud, dark, but yet so peaceful.  Time stands still so I have time to think “either exit the barrel, or fall and smash the reef.”  But then the lip gets smaller and smaller.  OMG!  Now it’s time to be calm, confident, and hold on for my life.

Thank goodness for my morning squats and lunges because this is a lot of weight falling on my head.  This is called busting down the door.

And thank goodness for my morning yoga routine because balance is everything.  This is called a one hand peacock yoga pose.  Haha.

I was in disbelief that I made that so had to put my windshield wipers on to clear my eyes from all that water.  

Then I said to myself “wow, that was my best wave of 2022 and there’s only 2 days left.  Really?”

Then like I promised myself, I came in and called it a day.  I was back in town by 8:30am.  Of course, smiling all the way…

Today was one of the happiest days of my life!

Back in the Day:  Tony Moniz, Isaiah Moniz, Seth Moniz, Gen Asano, and Joshua Moniz.  Ala Moana Bowls

Good morning 4am.
North shore 4-6′ and perfect. Backdoor day.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds so clean conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I was watching the kids ride down the hill with their bikes, scooters, and skateboards.  They were going so fast so I was so nervous.  Look at Keahi in the back almost falling on his face.  OMG!

This kid is only 3 but loves speed.  He’s going down the hill so fast that the front wheel was wobbling out of control.  So he just jumped off.

Then Mateus taking his little sister on a speed ride.  I couldn’t watch the kids anymore because I thought one of them was going to get hurt.  So I left.

When I went to Kahala Mall, I saw these pots.  They look so familiar because every household in Japan has one.  Then I looked at the price and it was $42!  OMG, that’s 5,500 yen!  I swear these cost 500 yen or $3.75 in Japan.  Inflation or Ripoff?