Light it UP!

Good morning 5am.
North shore 2-4′ this morning coming up to 6-8′ this afternoon. Perfect conditions.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I was so happy about yesterday that I couldn’t sleep.  I woke up at 3am and got to Backdoor in the pitch dark.  I was the first one there but the waves looked a lot smaller than yesterday.  So I went to Haleiwa, surfed my short board, and had a blast!    

I was back on the highway at 7:30am heading back to town.  I love to start my days early.  

A long drive with my magic board in the back seat.

Since I had the rest of the day ahead, I started another home improvement project.  

New paint for a fresh start.

Here’s another shot of my early morning session at Backdoor yesterday.  It was still dark but I could still see the end of the dark tunnel…

If you look good, you can see me paddling for this wave at Backdoor.  All those dots that look like ants are surfers.  When I’m paddling, I can actually see guys scrambling all around.  Every single wave at Backdoor, every body wants.  So yes, it could be like war out there.  I’m going right and Kahea Hart is going left.  This is called “splitting the peak.”  In that crowd of surfers, were some famous pro’s.  Ezekiel Lau, Barron Mamiya, Mick Fanning, Yago Dora, Rio Waida, Eli Hanneman, Joshua Moniz, and many more.  Pretty cool surfing with the boys.

It’s crazy that the take off spot is the exact same for the 35 years I’ve been surfing out there.  I lineup with a pine tree and sit right above a patch of reef I’m familiar with and just wait.  I rode a 6’6 Kerry Tokoro and it felt solid. I made every drop and no wipeouts so that’s success for me.

I’d never thought I’d still be getting barreled at Backdoor at 55 years old.  I’m living in my bonus years so every experience out there is a bonus for my life.  I’m super grateful for that.