Monday December22日 2025年

A Stoked Teenager

Since the tide is so low, you can clearly see the reef.  Paddling out is tricky and if you go the wrong way, you will get stuck and will have to walk.  So proper instructions is important.  Rob and Marley inching their way out.

Teaching teenagers how to surf is my favorite.  You can see their curiosity, their emotions, and their joy.  Even though I met Marley for the very first time, I could tell by this smile that she was having a great time.  The surfers golden smile!

We started off in the inside and after 3 rides, she surfed perfectly.  Then it was time to take off the reef boots and go outside to ride the big ones.

I only had to explain things once to Marley.  Looking forward, bending her knees, and smiling not only looks great, but feels great.  This is great great!

If this girl has Instagram, this would be a cool profile photo.  Her first surf in paradise couldn’t have been any prettier.

June 20, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Hawaiian/Japanese Inflation:  $4.99 for Pocari Sweat?

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Boot Camp Ultimate Goal

Another day of perfect waves.  A little bigger than yesterday and much more cleaner.  Dean on his longboard flowing on this perfect right.

The ultimate goal was to get this girl on the shortboard.  We started on the 11’0 longboard and worked our way down slowly.  Yesterday I let her try a 5’11 twin fin and told her not to have high expectations.  It’s going to be a struggle catching waves because the board is so small.  She caught a few waves yesterday which was a success.  Then this morning, she paddles out the 5’11 and rides 15 waves!  I couldn’t believe it!  That’s pretty dam good girl!

Then I went back out with Marley.  Marley is a young high school graduate who wanted to surf for the very first time.  After a few waves, she took off her reef boots and wanted to ride bigger waves.  By the end of our session, she was paddling into sets on her own and riding them for a minute.  A very energetic girl!