Yesterday once more: Surf your dream…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

A beautiful morning surfing with M-san.  Very nice guy and surfing very good.  This is a very good bottom turn right off the airplane. 

Passing by me as I watch from behind.  This is flow.

This girl asked me today “I want another surfboard.”  That’s so funny because I told her to stay on this one for a while and it’s only been a few days.  She wants something more responsive and alive.  I totally understand it. 

So maybe a couple more days on this and we’ll try something else.  I have a brand new 6’2 at my house waiting for someone to try it.  Umm…

Went back out in the afternoon with Yoshida-san and Rico-san.  Father and daughter enjoying the absolutely best time you can ever experience together.  In the ocean and surfing will make any relationship a 100x stronger.

more beautiful summer days ahead…

First time surfing with Yakushiji-san.  Just by the way he was talking about surfing on the ride over to the beach, I knew he was going to have fun! 

After this wave, he told us this was the best wave of his life.  

Then he caught more and more which were even better and better.  It was so cool watching Yakushiji-san with the biggest smiles paddling back out.  

One from behind.  This must feel so good surfing right into Diamond Head. 

When we all surf together, everyone gets better.  It’s like a little friendly competition where everyone pushes each others limits.  And this brings out the best in every surfer. 

After surfing all those low tide mornings, the afternoon high tide sessions are almost too easy.  

This is flow.  The only way to live life…