Free miles…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore 8-10′ with another swell tomorrow. Be careful!
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Cool clear morning and warm sunny afternoon.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I was surprised how calm the ocean was today compared to yesterday.  The good thing is there were still some leftover wraparound West swells that was hitting certain spots. 

I passed by a spot where usually 30 guys are usually surfing and nobody was out.  The swells were chest high and there were about a hundred waves per hour.  I got super excited knowing what was about to happen. 

So I threw the anchor in, threw my foil in, and paddled my hardest to get my first wave.  My plan was to catch one wave and see how many I can connect into.   There were so many waves so I was hoping for at least 10 continuous waves.   

So I catch my first wave, pumped into another, and another, and another….  Next thing you know, I was on my 12th wave riding for over 3 minutes!  So after my 3 minute ride, I was totally exhausted.  I couldn’t even breath!  I was thinking that was enough but when I looked around and seen all these perfect waves coming right to me, I stayed out for another hour.  Today was one of my best foiling sessions of my life!  Score!

Then one of the locals drives by and says “eh, you like fruits?”  OMG, Merry Christmas to me!

Another Golden day in Paradise…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 8-10′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and much cleaner.
Diamond Head chest high sets and good.
Light South/West today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!