First light…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
WQS Surf Into Summer FINALS DAY!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

There is a WQS contest at Bowls now so all of Hawaii’s top men and women pro surfers are competing. Before the contest starts, everybody is out practicing so I took my student out there this morning. It’s a very different vibe so I wanted her to experience it. She ended up catching 5 waves with all these guys out so that was an experience in itself.

I’ve known Larry for about 35 years. I haven’t seen him in the past 20 years and all of a sudden, I see him every day now. Super happy see you back smiling in the water Larry!

Another very low tide morning. The tide has been so low that even the locals have been cutting their hands and dinging their boards on the reef.

When you see the pinkish part of rocks exposed, that’s how you know it’s shallow. So shallow that the crabs on the rocks don’t even know what’s going on.  Haha.

Went back on my foil drone yesterday afternoon.  Waves were perfect and water was clear.  Surfing was excellent.  Taking off on a nice right. 

The bottom turn is the most important maneuver on a wave.  This predicts everything that follows.

Gosh, in the past 3 days, this girl got so much better!  It’s so fun to watch the stoke. 

I can tell this summer is going to be very hot because I’ve never used my air conditioner so much.  And it’s only going to get hotter and hotter.  

One thing I did was install 4 ceiling fans.  Now I have trade winds in every room and it feels wonderful.