Life: Make it Count

Boot Camp on will make your surfing dreams come true.  This girl couldn’t imagine riding a 6’1 and catching waves by herself.  Now she is.  Pretty cool to see the progression.

Not everywhere in the world will have a white sandy beach in front of a surf spot.  Sometimes there will be other ways you will have to enter and exit the ocean.  Ducking under a low pier might be the only way so you better know how.  

And sometimes you have to figure out how to get in safely.  Dodging boat propellers, sharp reef, dirty water, and sharks.  

Experiencing a surfers funeral makes you think about life.  How life is so precious, and how life can end in a second.  Life is something we shouldn’t take for granted.  Nobody knows when their last wave or last day will be.  So make it count…

March 18, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday afternoon once more:  Davey-Boy on a overhead set at Bowls.

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Starting an Epic Summer

We paddled out extra early this morning.  It was so dark that I couldn’t see anything.  The only thing I could see was the Honolulu City Lights.  It was beautiful and so peaceful.  

Barak ripping in the first light.  I’m surprised the camera caught this because it was still pretty dark.  This happened before 6am.

After our session, we went to practice how to enter the ocean off the rocks.  Timing is everything.

Still need a little more practice then everything will become easy.  

We went back out this afternoon to Bowls and it was even better than the morning!  Head high and perfect offshore winds.  Check out David Gonsalves on a nice set.  So many waves for everyone!    

A very happy Sunday afternoon for every surfer that caught waves today.  Is this a sign of an epic Summer?  I hope so!