Dana@Bowls this morning.  Sick wave Dana!

If you ask any surf good surfer, he or she will tell you that the very first bottom turn is the most important part of the wave.  This is where you set up for everything, this is where you time the energy, and this is where you start the flow.  If you have a good bottom turn like this, everything that follows will be amazing.  

And the more you lean into your bottom turn, the more the surfboard will go on the rail, and the faster you will go.  Make sure your back foot is on the tail of the surfboard right above the fins.  Make sure your weight on your back foot is pressing the gas pedal at 90%, and let your front foot press at 10% as that is your steering wheel.  Try it and you will look like this.  Absolutely perfect!

**Posted February 6, 2024

This morning had one of the nicest sunrises at Diamond Head in a while.  

I don’t remember ever seeing so many tourists coming here for the sunrise.   It’s been like this every morning.  

Finally after a month of no trade winds, it’s back!  That means the wind swell will be around for a few days.  It looked like this today and the girls were so happy to be out there all by themselves.

Nice long rights if you know how to find them.  And these girls know how to find them.  I was so proud watching them exchange wave after wave.  

A big ocean for these 2 girls.  They prefer it this way.  Smart.

Every time we walk up the cliff, I tell them to walk fast and never take a break.  We’re working on the breath and staying calm.  This is never easy to do.