We’ve been long boarding because the waves have been small. Practicing timing, and practicing style. When you have the right timing, the style follows, and everything after that looks really good. This is a lot harder to do than it looks.
Next wave jumping on a shortboard. Something most surfers have a difficult time doing. But not for this surfer. She can jump back and forth on any size board and surf it properly. That is harder than it looks.
I saw lots of boats heading to Molokai for the Molokai to Oahu paddle board race that’s happening today. I was an escort boat captain twice and both times the conditions were super rough. This year I turned down the job and I don’t regret it. At any age, your body will ache for a while because of the ride over and back. It’s as rough and dangerous as it gets. It’s not for everyone.
Then a storm comes and everything turns black. You can’t see anything because of the strong wind and rain stinging your eyes. This is not for everyone either. So yes, I’m happy to be here on land in Hawaii and not in these rough seas for 2 full days. My body just told me “thank you.”
