Tokura san gave me some slides to look at while I was in Japan.  It was slides from 32 year ago.  I was super excited to see it but I didn’t know how?  Do places still scan slides anymore? The last time I looked at a slide, I don’t think the iPhone was even out yet.

So I use the light in my iPad, use whatever I can find to block the glare, then I take a photo with my iPhone.  It’s a miracle it worked.

Manabu Nomoto took this photo back in 1992 North Shore season.  I was sponsored by Local Motion and I was riding a 7’2 Pat Rawson gun.  That was my first year sponsored by Dove Wetsuits.  I was 25 years old with a gold chain and a very bad attitude.  So for all of those who stuck by me throughout those years, thank you from the bottom of my heart.  And for those who didn’t stick by me, I’m sorry but I don’t blame you.  Haha.

Summer is here!

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves were really fun this morning.  Had a great time taking Mori-san surfing as this was his first time to Hawaii, and first surf in Hawaii.  I wanted to make sure he falls in love with Hawaii, and falls more in love with surfing.  From his first wave, I saw a very happy man!

I let him try my magic board and he never gave it back.  Haha.  This board will make any surfer love surfing even more.

Thank you Mori-san for the amazing morning.  Enjoy Hawaii!

Came home and ate a healthy salad.  Finally I’m back and healthier than ever.  Trade winds back for a while so it will be offshore for the next 10 days for sure.  Gonna surf everyday!