My friend owns an island in the middle of southeast Asia.  He’s been sending me empty lineups for years now and insisting for me to join him.  I never had the opportunity because it’s so far.  He just sent me an invitation again and said he’s bored of surfing these epic waves all to himself.   After thinking the world no longer had secret surf spots, I was wrong.  If you own an island and have the sole rights to the waves in front of your house, that’s secret and also sacred.  Anyway, I just spent the last 3 hours searching for flights.  I takes 3 days to get there but it might be the last spot in the world like this.   Could this year be the year?

Beyond Dawn Patrol.

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and coming up. Good conditions.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so good conditions everywhere.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We really got lucky finding these huge tako last time!  It’s tako season now so I’m craving to go back for more.  I hope they’re back in their little hole.  Please come back tako!

I don’t watch tv so I don’t subscribe to it.  But when Shohei Ohtani was playing in game 7 of the World Series, I couldn’t resist.  Because I don’t pay for tv, this is all I saw the entire game.  Imagine me screaming out of excitement watching the game like this.  Haha.

The waves finally came up in town.  It’s been really small for the past month so it was a treat to get some nice waves today.  Ogasawara-san enjoying the biggest day of 2026 year at Bowls.

Lots of waves and very clean.  It felt like it was still coming up so hopefully tomorrow will be bigger and better.

I passed through Ala Moana Shopping Center this afternoon and couldn’t believe how empty it was.  I didn’t see a single customer in Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Gucci.  All I saw was the staff looking their iPhones.  Is this the new normal?  I’m very concerned for our economy.