Round 1:  Early morning Bowls.  Another perfect clear sky for Ogasawara-san!  

OMG, it was so crowded!  You have to hunt.

Rocky hunted and found the biggest set of the morning.

The one and only chest high wave.

Keeping calm and enjoying the ride.

This girl is getting good!

My friend owns an island in the middle of southeast Asia.  He’s been sending me empty lineups for years now and insisting for me to join him.  I never had the opportunity because it’s so far.  He just sent me an invitation again and said he’s bored of surfing these epic waves all to himself.   After thinking the world no longer had secret surf spots, I was wrong.  If you own an island and have the sole rights to the waves in front of your house, that’s secret and also sacred.  Anyway, I just spent the last 3 hours searching for flights.  I takes 3 days to get there but it might be the last spot in the world like this.   Could this year be the year?

Beyond Dawn Patrol.

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and coming up. Good conditions.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so good conditions everywhere.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!