this weekend they’re running the Local Motion Surf into Summer contest at Bowls!  every professional and amateur surfer in Hawaii has sometime in their life surfed this contest.  it’s been going on for decades and i remember wanting to make the finals because the prizes were amazing!

we paddled out in the afternoon and surfed near the contest.  too bad for the contest because the waves were really small.  i haven’t seen it small like this for over a year.

i could hear the competitors talking about how difficult it was to even stand up on a wave.  i was going to tell them “hey, you guys are in the wrong spot!”  haha.

because where we were, the waves were super good!  this would have been a heat winning wave for sure!!!

Morning Glory!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Nanami-san became an Early Bird!   she’s up early in the morning smiling and ready to surf!  

another morning of smooth and clean conditions.  long rides too!

Daisuke-san with the sunrise wave.

if you’re doing it right, surfing will change your life.  it will make you healthier and happier.   but you have to do it right!  

it got super crowded and when the tide came high, the waves went flat!  today was the smallest day of the year but if you had the right board, it was epic!