when the fish swam through the lineup, we both said “look at the fish!”

there was a beginner out there trying to look for the fish too.  BUT, he was looking up and around.  haha.  hey guy, the fish are swimming under the water.  look down!  haha…

this is one of the most dangerous things i’ve ever seen.  Matahi Drollet at Teahupoo on a foil?  are you serious???   that is something i DO NOT want to do.  i love my life too much for it to end in a flash…

My Happy Place:  an outer island boat trip with my special friends.  we just have to wait until the winds back off a little.  i hope soon!

i sure miss my toy.  i was too busy at the time to enjoy it more.  if i had it now, i’d be driving this to the beach everyday.  what a beauty she was!

Life is Lovely…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds getting stronger to 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

yes, another beautiful Summer day in Hawaii!  blue sky, warm water, and tropical weather.

and perfect conditions.  paddling into a wave like this with the sun rising is a great feeling!

Bowls was small and crowded as usual.  but if you had the right board, you will have the great time.  no complaints here…

thankfully, a few nice sets rolled through and we were in the right place at the right time.  score!

“just when i thought surfing was good, it just got better!”  that was today’s quote from this very happy surfer girl!