these 2 little girls are my treasure.  i’ve watched them grow up from little rascal babies to fine young adults.  the ups, the downs, the happiness, and the sadness.  i’ve been there the whole way just enjoying the process of them growing up.  i never got mad at them, and i always made sure they both knew that i was always on their side.  through the good times and the bad, they knew i wasn’t going anywhere.  of course, it wasn’t easy.  they made many mistakes in life, but i always told them that mistakes will only make you stronger.  and stronger they are.  the bond they have with each other is unbreakable.

so spending some Christmas holiday time with these 2 lovely young ladies was fun.  talking, laughing, and remembering the obstacles in life.  i know they will make more mistakes on their path to their dreams, and i’ll still be watching from the side.  i’m super proud of you girls.  love you Marissa and Mia!  

a glass of Blue Label and some chocolate for dessert.  hope you all had a Merry Christmas!

Barrels of fun!

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good. Looks bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Jellyfish warning.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

today was the peak day of the box jellyfish invasion.  the locals were on the beach with their flashlights looking to see if they were really here.  

yes, they were here so now you have to make a choice.  surf or no surf?  

for us, it was SURF!  i’d risk getting stung to be able to surf perfect conditions like this.  

the waves were bigger and better than yesterday.  and because of the box jellyfish, less surfers.  

Daisuke-san got stung on his leg but he didn’t notice it until the end of the session.  happiness wins over pain!  

add another 160M or 175 yard ride to this happy mans surfing history!  just by looking at this photo, you can feel the stoke!  a lot of people ask me why i like to teach surfing?  this is the reason why!