Back in the day: Front Row Seats…

Good morning 5:10am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, i couldn’t believe how beautiful the sunrise was this morning!!  i was in awe just watching it rise…

and it’s even more beautiful when Jeannie Chesser is in the photo.  super fun to surf with you girl!  you were ripping!

happy to see Asayama-san with his new surfboard!  i can’t wait to surf with you again!

this is called halalu.  these are best eaten when it’s deep fried.  you can eat the whole thing and it will crunch like potato chips.  i will eat half, then use the other half for bait to catch a bigger fish. can’t wait!

check out this amazing balance Donald has.  i call it the Bruce Lee of foiling!  

when SUP’s started to get popular in Hawaii, i use to hear fights among SUP guys, long boarders, and short boarders.  one thing that stood out to me was when a SUP guy told a surfer, “stay out of my way.”  that was 15 years ago and that stuck inside my head because i didn’t think that was nice.  so now that i’m a foiler, i feel like foilers are on the top of the food chain.  you do not want to get run over by this blade going 30mph.  it will cut a SUP in half…

i really miss going on dive trips a lot.  it’s so relaxing and so rewarding.  relaxing is the peaceful underwater world, and rewarding is the sashimi to follow.  and the best part is there is absolutely no Covid here!