my goal is to be able to ride any surfboard, any foil board, and any foil on any given day on any type of wave.  each setup makes a huge difference but i just want to be able to pop up on anything and connect.  so the past few months, i’ve been experimenting a lot and with my equipment, friends equipment, and borrowed equipment.  and each time i try something different, i realize what the most important thing is to success.  and that is “confidence.”  i trick my mind telling myself “i got this.”  my adrenaline is rushing so hard that my heart is pumping out of my chest.  and when it’s all over, i can’t describe to you how happy i am.  and i also can’t describe to you how tired i am.  haha…

More Colorful Days Ahead…

Good morning 5:10am.
North shore chest high and fun.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny, warm, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i drove out to the North shore in the dark, arrived, and the waves were flat.  got back in the car, headed back to town, and had a super good session at Ala Moana.  jumped on Mayuki and i caught my first wave at 7am.  so imagine how early i woke up this morning.  2:30am to be exact.  haha.  it goes to show you how dedicated i am to finding the perfect wave.  i’ll drive all day if i had to…  

my brother invited me to ride dirt bike in the mountains with him and Tony.  i said “no way, i’m going to get hurt riding with you guys.”  so i went to foil instead.  then 30 minutes later, i get a text and this photo from him.  OMG!  i texted him back, “sell my bike!”  haha…