Big Rights is my favorite surf spot on the South shore.  i’ve been surfing there for 35 years so i payed my dues.  throughout those years, i got yelled at, broke surfboards, got yelled at, and broke surfboards.  amazingly i didn’t have to get into a fight out there.  anyway, i don’t consider myself a local, but i’m not a visitor either.  i’ll paddle out and wait for the biggest and best wave.  and when it comes, i’m going to go.  that wave is incredible!  i remember this Summer many years ago.  this was before Mayuki came into my life because i had to paddle out from the beach.  but good thing because i had my camera and shot this photo of Kyle Nakamoto on a good one!  i can’t wait for days like this again!!!

when a heat starts, there is no priority.  Gabriel is usually the one hassling his competitors from start to finish and that’s how he breaks their confidence.  but yesterday, Gabriel chose the wrong kid.  Seth doesn’t back down to anyone!  so when they were paddling for the first wave, Seth paddled right on Gabriel’s back!     

this should have been an interference.  if you block a surfer from catching a wave, it should be an interference.  but since it’s the World Champ, sometimes rules are different.  

Gabriel ended up getting sucked over the falls on that wave.  and from that time on, i could tell he was rattled.  

and when you break someones confidence, you break their game plan.  who looks like the confident one here?  

Seth didn’t surf a perfect heat, but he did enough to get the win.  the biggest win in his life by far!  Gabriel is out of the contest and Seth is moving on to the quarterfinals!  

i think Gabriel is one of the most fierce competitors in the world.  he’s going to take this loss and become stronger from it.   that’s a scary thought.  but until then, Seth just stole all his confidence and i hope he takes it all the way to the finals!

Yippie!  Let’s GO!

Good morning 5:20am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and maybe a rainbow.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!