The Magic Lagoon…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and little bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
South/West winds so junky conditions later today.
Sun, clouds, rain, and hot.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

want to thank Chichan for sending me these beautiful photos taken from Maui.  seeing Molokai right in front is so tempting.  i would probably swim to there if i lived on Maui.

and the amazing sunsets are breathtaking.

Haleakala is also on my bucket list.  i always wanted to watch the sunrise from on top.  it’s never too late.

now back to Oahu.  this morning i wanted to get away from people and just foil with the full moon on one side, and the sunrise on the other.  i didn’t care how big it was because all i needed is a little ankle wave to get me flying…

i found a little peak with only one person out.  super early, super calm, super nice, and super peaceful.  then by 7am, everything disappeared.  i was home by 7:30am feeling so content.  timing is everything!

we are all waiting for international travel to resume.  one of my top spots is Bali.  it’s looking like July will start accepting tourists.  the only thing is i’m not really sure that Americans will be on the list.  this was 15 years ago at Keramas when it was one of the best “Boys Trip” ever!

not too many people know about the waves in Japan.  i took this photo 25 years ago at a secret spot.  ever since then, i’ve gotten hundreds of barrels and thousands of memories on that island.  as for Japan opening up, it doesn’t look good for a while.  i’m guessing i won’t be able to go there until 2022.   i’ll keep waiting patiently and when it opens, i’ll be on the first flight over…