in 2020, i probably seen over 300 of 365 sunrises from the sea.  so far this year, i’m 3 of 3 with 362 more to go!

on today January 3rd, 2021, this was the best spot on the island to foil.  only had a couple guys out so everybody else must have been still sleeping.  but this guy Kona never sleeps…

Kona’s son is only 14 years old, but foiling like a man…

i was the oldest guy out there today.  but inside this old mans body is a young boy who wants to fly like Superman.  it’s crazy how connected i feel with my equipment and ocean right now.  i feel like free bird!!!

Let’s be patient in 2021!

Good morning 5am.
North shore 6-8′ and good. Pipe/Backdoor day.
Ala Moana knee high and good. Little bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

for all of you who watched the Pipeline Masters, you probably seen this.  John John was winning the heat and Kelly had no chance as time was running out.  so what does Kelly do?  he drops in on John John.  this lead to Kelly getting an interference on top of losing.  this has been the talk in the surf lineups recently.  some people say that they’re friends so it’s ok.  some people say that Kelly has no class to do that.  want to hear what i think?  first, John John had priority so that was his wave.  if Kelly didn’t drop in on him, he could have possibly made that barrel and got a 10 point ride.  Kelly fell.  second, if John John did pull into the barrel behind Kelly, he could have gotten hurt because that’s pretty dangerous.  third, Kelly hates to lose and loves to take away glory from his competitors.  he’s known for that.  last, if it were the other way around, there is no way John John would have done that to Kelly.  you can call it unsportsmanlike, you can call it no manners, you can call it no respect, or you can call it Kelly just being Kelly.  but in the end, John John was the better man in that situation, and everybody i talked to respects that.  so to all you young kids that are inspired by Kelly Slater, “don’t drop in like that because it will make you look like a poor loser.”  once again, congratulations John John on your first Pipeline Masters!