i paddled out my shortboard this morning because i thought it was going to be perfect for surfing.  then after getting out there, i thought it was perfect for foiling.  so i went straight in and grabbed my foil.  look at these slopes!  i was flying down them!!!been having a good time taking photos.  i ride a wave all the way to the inside, and shoot photos when i’m paddling back out.  so easy and so fun!i see a guy i haven’t seen before paddle out, then a wave came right to him so he thought it was his.  wrong!   a local surfer just turns in front of him and drops right in.  looks back and keeps on riding.  i was thinking to myself “welcome to Bowls!”  haha…then Troy passes by, paddles back out, and the first thing he said to me was “welcome to Bowls.”  haha.  it was so funny!!!  if you’re an outsider and think you can paddle to the lineup and catch a wave, forget it.  not at Bowls…

when i use to dawn patrol, there would only be a couple cars in the morning.  but now, dawn patrol is worst than mid-day.  you can’t even find a parking stall at 5:30am!!!  it took me 30 minutes to find parking yesterday morning…but once you’re in the ocean, all the stress is forgotten.  here is Kupe on his classic single fin…the waves have been super good recently.  nice walls for high performance surfing.and girls having fun in the inside bowl.i love when there are flaws in the photo.  makes it artsy looking.  but absolutely no flaws in this turn.timing is everything.  this is where you want to hit the lip backside…

Longboarding @ Ala Moana Bowls…

Good morning 3:30am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head overhead and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!