the past few mornings, there must have been a hundred surfers from Rockpiles to Bowls.  the most crowded it’s ever been.  but since i have my foil, crowds don’t matter…near Diamond Head, there is a neighborhood with the coolest historic houses.  built in the 1930’s, we call these Gingerbread Houses…i’m not sure what it means when the City and County gives you a Historic Residence sign.  but i’m sure it adds value to the houses that’s already priced around $2M.  i’ve been hooked on this drama series from India.  todays message was “where there is a will, there is a way.”  i truly believe in that!  last, i found this photo in my album.  i didn’t realize how beautiful my 2 nieces are until now.  haha…

Watch your step:  Slippery when wet…

Good morning 4:20am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going training.

Have a wonderful day!

i had a 5pm early dinner last night.  then i was falling asleep and didn’t want to sleep at 6:30pm again so i grabbed my foil and headed 10 minutes down my street.  paddle out right as the sun was setting and it was so amazing!

i was foiling until pitch dark again.  came home totally satisfied at 8pm and went straight to sleep.

then woke up 3am and waited until 5am. headed out in the dark and i was the first one out so i had the ocean all to myself.  then this little kid paddles out and was smiling the whole time.  i guess that’s what i must look like too.  haha.

yesterday morning surfed Bowls in the early morning.  good to see the waves super good, and good to see the boys ripping.

i really miss my friends.  we haven’t gotten together for a very long time.  i don’t have social media too so i have no idea how everybody is doing now.  so the next time we get together, i’m sure we will have lots to talk about, and after some tequila, we’ll be bonding like this again.  haha…