Another newborn foiler!  Keep flying Matsu!!!

Good morning 5:15am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and bumpy.  Little morning sickness.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sunny and warm.  Lots of rainbows.

Going foiling and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

want to thank the Shima Bananas for the gifts!  i’ll drink my Orion beer, watch the DVD’s, and put stickers all over my surfboards!

this morning the waves were still big!  but when you can surf as good as Seira-chan, it doesn’t matter how big the waves are.  look at this very beautiful long wall ahead!

i use to coach her and yell from behind when she’s riding a wave, but not anymore.  i’m just trying to keep up with her speed.

yeah, i still can’t believe how good this girl got so quickly!  i know guys that surfed for 30 years and can’t do an off the lip like this.

Seira-chan broke her leash so she just kept calm and tied it up like this.  when i looked at it, i was amazed because it was a classic fishermans knot! i asked her how did she know how to tie it like that?  she said she just tied it.   wow!  that’s very impressive because i know people who would panic and go in if they broke their leash.  Seira-chan surfed all morning like that…

as a surf coach, i’m very pleased with these results.  any coach would…

and i tell all young Japanese women to stay in your hotel at night.  this is why!  a 20 year old kid got shot and killed last night at Ala Moana Shopping Center!!!  unbelievable…

 Boot Camp Day 2 and Nancy was already surfing 10x better.  big drops and everlasting rides… Nanami-san gets the most excited of anyone i know.  some is stoke, some is fear, and some is adrenaline.  she could ride the best wave of her life, then paddle back out and forget about it.  haha… her son Gavin is feeling the freedom of living in Hawaii and being able to surf waves like this anytime he wants. i’ve been getting asked a lot in the water “who’s that girl?”  the reason why they are asking is because this girl is ripping!  and her name is Seira-chan… first she connects with what ever board she’s riding that day, then she connects next to the ocean.  this is what you call “full connection.”   Nancy’s starting to connect and once she does a little more, she will go back to Boston a reborn surfer… good job and perfect form Gavin.   now we can all go out and share waves together without killing each other.  haha… i don’t know why but when ever Nanami-san comes to Hawaii, the waves are giant!  she’s a wave magnet… when you have the perfect form like this, you will have the perfect style.  this is a perfect example on how to surf like a professional.  i’m pretty sure Seira-chan can easily become a professional surfer if she wants to.our little surf group is getting better and better.  watching each other and supporting each other.  this is what surfing is all about…