Secret Spot and Golden Bananas…

 we pulled up to Bowls and saw 40 surfers out.  then i remembered about my baby Mayuki sitting so lonely in the harbor!!!  so we jumped on her and had the secret session of our lives!   Nao-san got to surf this spot all to herself.  we were sitting in the boat just cheering her on while she rode the waves of her life.  it was so cool to see this girl enjoying her B-Day!   Toda-san and i foiled.  it was my first time foiling there so it was super exciting flying over the shallow reef…  i’ve never in my life seen Toda-san so happy like this… and i’ve never seen in my life Nao-san and Takami-san so happy like this too.  so cool!   then went to grab lunch at Chinatown.  i was telling them the story about the time one of my friends almost got kidnapped while she was sitting in my truck.  and it was in the day and right in front of me.  and if you don’t believe me, Asayama-san was there so ask him.   this chicken rice dish is my favorite.  and if you came here with me before, you would now how much this lady hates me.  or maybe loves me?  i always get the worst service i’ve ever experienced in this world.  haha… we took a drive and stopped by this beautiful view.  Toda-san and Nao-san look like Japanese tourists!!!  haha… then drove through Ala Moana park and they were having a VW show!!!   so yes, we pulled over and took a look at some vintage VW’s! if i was rich, i would buy every single one of these… one of the cleanest motors i’ve ever seen.  you could eat food off that engine!   and guess what i saw?  our old buggy!!!   the guy is really taking care of it!   but no, i don’t miss it at all.  we have something faster and more classic now.  instead of feeling like a teenager in a buggy, i feel more like James Bond in a Speedster.  haha.. then we made it right in time for the Okinawan Festival.  it was amazing!!!  and i got to see the Shima Bananas!!!  all 6 Okinawan surf legends!  i just love these guys!!!  Haisai!

then went back out for an evening session with Matsumoto-san and Kana-chan.  a very long day full of fun in the sun…

Dodgeball Surfing

i paddled out to Bowls yesterday morning and seen some familiar faces.  OMG, the Okinawa Godfather’s in Hawaii!  so stoked to see you Kazubo-san!    and like usual, Kazubo-san loves to surf and won’t come in until he’s satisfied.  so about 5 hours.  haha.  the boys are in town for today’s event at the Convention Center.  see you there at 3pm to watch the Shima Banana’s!today we went out to play surfing dodgeball.  i told the girls to look around, be aware, and be very careful because there were 30 surfer out.   Nao-san found a gem with nobody blocking her!  keep calm, and keep looking forward.  good job! Seira-chan is really comfortable out there.  her level of surfing is standing out and turning heads.   then i seen Omine-san!!!  welcome to Hawaii boys!!!  so happy to see my best Okinawan friends here!  haisai!   the girls surfing together can learn from one another.  they can learn to surf, learn to be calm, learn to get along, and learn to become friends.  like i said many times before, this was my dream… not only we were having fun, so were others… Seira-chan is surfing so fast that i can’t keep up anymore!  just 3 years of surfing experience and this girl is living the surfers dream life…  i seen a beginner girl right in the way of this wave.  but i told Seira-chan to go anyway.  i wanted to see how she was going to react… and just like i taught her, she looked the other way and everybody was safe.  good job dodging the girl on the Costco surfboard… last wave into the beach.  peace… so happy to see Rikio on the beach.  he was waiting for over an hour for Kazubo-san to come in.  i saw Kazubo-san out there telling the rest of the Okinawan team to go in.  but he kept on surfing.  haha.  i told Rikio that Kazubo-san isn’t coming in anytime soon.  good job girls!  i’m super proud of you for surviving surf dodgeball this morning.  keep on smiling…  also, i didn’t know it was Naosan’s birthday!  Happy Birthday Naosan!!!  wishing you another year of happiness…

spent the afternoon surfing with the Shima Bananas.  a classic session…

September 1, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Happy Birthday Nao-san!  Wishing you another year of long and happy rides…

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sun, clouds, and hot.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!