Yesterday@Waikiki:  Yeah Todasan!!!  Getting better and better.  Never give up!!!

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and fun.

Light East winds at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 omg, it was so sad hearing about the tragic accident last night on the news.  a skydive plane crashed and 11 people died.  so sad… first they thought there were 9 on the plane, but turned out they found 11 bodies.  after Seth went skydiving here earlier this year, i was seriously thinking of trying it out.  but not anymore… woke up this morning to a better day and went surfing with Oshima-san.  it was cloudy but still very beautiful!   i just love riding on the side of Oshima-san.  this guy is super stoked on surfing… you can imagine me screaming from the side.  haha.  good style!  and yeah, we probably laugh the loudest in the ocean.   can’t help having fun… gosh, i love surfing very much!  and i love having a good time.  thank you Oshima-san for all the laughs.  see you again tomorrow! went to meet some family and friends down at Diamond Head for an evening session. we had a blast!!!  so fun to surf with everyone!!!

another happy day in paradise.  better get to sleep because tomorrow is another happy day!  good night everybody….

 so stoked to meet new people everyday.  to take them out surfing at Ala Moana and to watch them catch the longest waves of their life makes me very happy.  here is Ueno-san on just one of many.   Sugimoto-san or nickname “Bob-san” has been surfing for 40 years.  to me, he’s a legend!   Tomomi-san surfed a few times before but really didn’t have a good ride.  that was until now.  just in this one session, she made up for everything.  catching the most waves and smiling from start to finish.  amazing… Ueno-san’s a pretty happy surfer too.  always smiling and always enjoying the ride. and super focused with good style.   lucky Diamond Head back shot.   Bob-san in front, and Ueno-san waving in the back.  sharing a wave in Hawaii is amazing… had a nice chat with Bob-san and was so happy to hear of all the mutual friends we have in Osaka.  miss every one of them…thank you guys and girl for the epic evening rides.  keep on surfing and keep on smiling…