yesterday had the biggest influx of jellyfish ever seen in Hawaii.  so many people were getting stung but luckily not us… 900 plus stings and 5,000 jellyfish seen at Waikiki?  really?  i surfed Ala Moana and never even seen one jellyfish.   jellyfish or whatever, today was my last ocean day for a while so i decided to spend it in the ocean.  surfed this really good spot called “never minds.”  it was amazing!   then came in and ate at a local restaurant.  today’s special was deep fried akule.  or better known as “Aji” in Japan.   super fresh from the ocean, to the fryer, and to my plate.  i love akule!   and being the fisherman i am, i don’t waste a thing.  if i owned that restaurant, i would have deep fried these bones and ate it too.   then straight back to the ocean.  this time, i was there for 3 hours!  surfed in the morning, and foiled in the afternoon.  i surfed and foiled like it was my last day to live…  thank you Mia for sitting in the hot sun and taking these photos…omg, what i’m going to miss the most is the sensation of flying!  tomorrow early morning, i’ll be checking into the hospital, inhaling laughing gas, falling into a dream world, then they will pull my eye out and fix it.  when i wake up in the afternoon, i will be a one eye man for a little while.  that’s when my vacation officially starts!

 gosh, Hawaii is the real Surfers Paradise.  and so far, this Summer is going by real good!   even going over the wave is beautiful.  the sprays flying over the top is so pretty…   i pick up Karino-san from his hotel.  he said he surfed 10x before and said surfing is boring.  right then, i was happy that he found me because after today, surfing won’t be boring anymore.  i got him on the right board, taught him the right way, and here it is!  20 minutes later, he surfing with confidence and style.   i’m sure surfing won’t be boring for this guy anymore.  i could just tell by the look on his face after this long ride… so to everybody who thinks surfing is boring, come find me.  you’re either on the wrong surfboard, or not doing it the right way, or both.  i can change your perspective on surfing with one wave.  just like this!   thank you Karino-san for the wonderful time.  keep on surfing in Hokkaido or keep on surfing in Hawaii.  both is better!  haha.  welcome to a new world…every wave i ride on the foil is happiness for me.  the reason is because it took so much time, money, and effort to learn it.  so when i take people from Japan surfing, i know their feeling so well.  we’re riding waves on the ocean!  we’re gliding, flying, or sliding.  anyway you look at it, it’s the best feeling in the world!

Get Wet!

Good morning 5:20am.

Ala Moana down from yesterday.  Still overhead sets but coming down.  Clean!

Diamond Head still 5′ sets and good.

Light winds so good morning conditions.  Onshore winds coming later.

Hot and humid day.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!