everything i do, there is a reason for it. when i get out of the water, i always wrap the leash around the fin and under the leash like this so it won’t fall off onto the sand or out of my truck. i teach every student how to do it. it’s like tying your shoe the right way. very simple, and makes sense right?
so yesterday as i was driving home, people in other cars were honking their horns at me trying to tell me something. i couldn’t figure it out until i got home and saw this. OMG! somebody is in big trouble!!! i mean, Nao-san, you’re in big trouble! if the car behind me ran over my leash, what do you think would happen? yeah, my magic longboard will be straight in their windshield. then you would be in bigger trouble. haha…
good to see Toda-san and Takami-san looking so healthy and happy. hey Toda-san, did you lose weight? you look sharp!!!
and good job practicing on the foil. looking forward to foiling with you in July. can’t wait!
i tell everybody when i say go, you go! i’m always looking behind and accessing the situation. that girl in the back is a really good surfer, but when i seen the beginner in the red jersey drop in on her, i knew he was only going straight. so that’s when i told Dr. Ryu-san to go! no wave goes to waste when you’re surfing with me.
i told Dr. Ryu-san to paddle out before me. then i pulled up with my foil. he didn’t know i was right there to get these photos of him. surprise!!!
and yes, i trust him so much that i’m not afraid to foil 3′ in front of him. this is the only way to get a photo like this. so happy to succeed!
Dr. Ryu-san told me he’s never seen me so happy riding a wave until now. i didn’t realize it but it’s true. i just feel like a free bird when i foil. i can ride to different areas and fly across the ocean with my wings spread so wide. i can’t wait to teach him how to foil!
2 happy men after a very happy surf session. Happy Easter everyone!

Helmet Headstand: Local SUP Ronnie @ Bowls
today was Nao-san’s last day of her surfing vacation. i have to say that not only did her surfing improve so much, so did her life. already a happy girl, i could feel that she left even happier. going with the flow in and out of the ocean. had a great time with you Nao-san! amazing progress..
i see rainbows every morning and evening because i live in the rain. but today, it was Nao-san’s first rainbow sighting of her trip. and it was a big one!
so i had to get the photo of her surfing with the rainbow. happy colorful face that is glowing! this is how you enjoy surfing, and this is how you enjoy life…
i saw my friend and his daughter out surfing today. the cutest 11 year old named Sarah. just watching her smile while surfing brought happiness to us all. this is what surfing is all about…
then back out this evening. seen my friend Ronnie out there. we had a good talk about Seth in Australia. Ronnie said he was drinking beers and yelling to his computer when he was watching it. haha. i’ve been getting a lot of comments about Seth’s performance. comments from friends, and comments from total strangers. i want to thank all you guys for the love and support. i’m sure Seth feels the “mana” coming from Hawaii…
after being stuck in the Waikiki traffic, Dr. Ryu-san and i finally made it out to the ocean. and with the upcoming tide and upcoming swell, we couldn’t have picked a better time. absolutely perfect rides! guess how i got this beautiful photo? yup, my foil!
a local fisherman was caught with illegal fishing nets at Sand Island. over 1000′ of these nets that are totally illegal here in Hawaii. i’m glad the police caught him because this is the reason why there is no more fish on Oahu!
i’m wondering how many fish this guy has caught in the past. a very scary thought. but now that they caught him, these nets well be burned.
to see baby fish like this that are illegal size is so sad. the guys name is all over social media and the local fishing community is pissed off! shame on you!!!
