went to drop off the foil board i borrowed from Joshua before i kill myself. it was just too wild for me and i ain’t a teenager anymore. then checked out Seth’s fresh set of Wade Tokoro’s. Seth and Joshua leave tomorrow for Europe for some big QS contests. good luck boys!

then on the way home went to eat some Pieology Pizza.

i think my little friend added a filter to this photo because my eyes don’t look like that right??? pretty scary photo if you ask me…

Tsujimoto-san told me it rains everywhere she goes. i told her it’s ok because no rain, no rainbows! it was so beautiful!

and Tsujimoto-san’s surfing was so beautiful too! much bigger improvements than the last time we surfed. it was so fun to see!

more waves, more smiles! good surfing girl! then went surfing round 2 with Ezawa-san, then round 3 with Ishikawa-san.

and my day ended off something like this. worked for 9 hours today so you can imagine how good it felt to see the sun going down into the beautiful horizon. it was just another happy day in paradise…

day 2 of Boot Camp and everything looking so good! Ishikawa-san told me i don’t only teach surfing, he said i also teach philosophy. haha. we all know that surfing is 99% mental and i’ll do anything and everything to make it right. from yelling, to teasing, to laughing, to ignoring, and even to reverse psychology. i’ve been doing this for years with pretty good results. some people love it, some people hate it. i don’t care which one it is because in the end, you will be surfing perfectly like this. and that’s all that matters to me.

and when you can surf perfectly like this, your life will never be the same. what happens in the ocean reflects your entire lifetime ahead…

keeping calm and being relaxed is the key to surfing, and the key to a happy and successful life…

compared to day 1 Boot Camp, we have a newborn surfer overnight!

good job Ishikawa-san. your life will never be the same…

good surfing equals good food. best sandwiches from Israel.

happy man, happy food, happy life…

ever since i was 13 years old, i always had or have a roll of black tape near me. it’s the best for anything.

and now i learned how to make bikinis out of it. so next time a girl loses her bikini in the ocean, instead of throwing her a towel, i’ll throw her a roll of black tape. haha…

Hazardous Conditions…
Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing 3 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!