September 4, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Yesterday Morning: Keone@Bowls

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
East swell coming this afternoon.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Man of Dreams…


our endless summer continues. super good waves again this morning! perfect head high with perfect conditions.

super stoked to surf with this kid today. Shunsuke-kun is a kid with many dreams. one is to surf super good. another is to live in Hawaii so he can surf everyday like this.

i was coaching him after each wave and watching him progress so rapidly.

by the end of our session, Shunsuke-kun caught 25 waves and was ripping!

good to see Micah out with Hashimoto-san! good to see Hashimoto-san getting a taste of localism.

great surfing Shunsuke-kun! i’m pretty sure all your dreams will come true. just focus and never give up!

hungry surfers with the biggest plate lunch on the island.

can you believe i ate this whole plate??? omg!

then went to foil into the rainbow this evening at Diamond Head. another great day with great people and great nature. tomorrow will be more of the same. can’t wait…

Shadow Dancing…


want to welcome Hashimoto-san back to Paradise! right off the airplane and right into a perfect wave at Bowls!

i’m so happy to see everybody progressing. Hashimoto-san’s been practicing and it shows in his confidence and performance.

smooth style and smooth rides!

i couldn’t believe how empty it was on a Sunday afternoon.

good job Hashimoto-san. get ready for more days of local style boot camp!

ever seen shadow surfing before? here is my shadow dancing in the ocean…

and me dancing in the ocean too. i foiled in the morning, and surfed in the evening. that’s what you call a very satisfying day for me…