My survival kit.
Good morning 6am from Molokai!
Clear sky.
Green mountains.
Blue ocean.
White sand.
Wild nature.
No tourists.
Lots of fish.
Lots of shells.
Lots of aloha!
Have a wonderful day!

Michi-san gave me something to give to Mateus. so when i got home, i told Mateus “hey, Aunty Michi gave you a present!” he was so excited!

i said “close your eyes.”

then i put the present in front of him and said “ok, you can open your eyes now.” look how excited Mateus was! haha.

then he dug into the goodie bag.

emptying it out one by one. one smile at a time.

Mateus said “wow, Toy Story!!!”

when Mateus gets happy, he sticks out his tongue. why? i don’t know.

he was so happy with all his new toys!

more happy faces. haha.

we ended up playing and playing. i could work all day and come home so tired. but when it’s play time with Mateus, i’ll play with him.

thank you Aunty Michi!

there is the tongue again. haha.

check out these amazing drone photos by Todaheli! omg, i will never forget this session. big smiles, nice waves, big shark, nice friends, big memory. here is Maki-san on a very beautiful mirror wave.

so stoked to see Takami-san catching so many good waves too. it was the 4 of us taking turns and cheering each other on. to me, that’s what surfing is all about.

and i was lucky to get a few good ones for myself. it felt like we were on a boat trip somewhere in the other side of the world.

Iwata-san asked me if that that island was “lion island.” and after i looked at it again good, it did look like a lion. but it’s actually called “rabbit island.”

the best hawaiian plate on the planet. i love it!

ate some yuke or “raw beef” the other night. the best in hawaii for sure! and bummed japan don’t serve this anymore.

i want to congratulate Gen for catching his first Ulua! we were just talking about diving a few days ago while surfing big rights when i told him, “hey, your day will come.” and yesterday was his day. i’m so stoked for you dude!

check out this photo Yumi-chan sent me. look good and you will see something amazing.

yes, a rainbow around the shadow of the airplane. omg, that’s the first time i seen something like this.

more and more police shooting people in america. and more and more people shooting police in america. it’s actually getting kind of ugly. i hope the violence will stop. seeing these images on the news makes me sick. so sick that i felt like going back 100 years in time. and that’s where i’m going right now. old school hawaii.