another trip, another forgotten post? time is just flying so i don’t even remember what was what and when was when. these are photos from my July trip to japan chasing typhoon 12. seems like years ago!!!

the first good day of the year and i was stoked to be a part of it. check out how perfect the waves were!

had a super good time surfing with Matchi everyday. we’ve been chasing typhoons for 23 years so it’s just another wave produced by another typhoon. nice bottom turn Matchi!

if there were another place i’d want to live in besides hawaii and japan, it would have to be here inside the tube. i can’t get enough.

surfing secret local spots with absolutely no tourists. opps, except me. it took me 23 years to figure it out and i’m still learning. but the most important thing in surfing heavy localized spots in the world comes down to two words, RESPECT LOCALS.

imagine pulling up to this spot with nobody out? i seriously had to look around and see if someone was playing a joke on us or something. it was no joke as Matchi and i were exchanging barrels after barrels. i still can’t believe how lucky we were.

and always stoked to surf with my beautiful friend in japan. what a small wonderful world we live in!

Awesome!
Good morning 6:10am.
New South swell!
Solid head high with overhead sets at Ala Moana. Perfect!
Diamond Head 4′ and good.
Light East winds at 5mph.
Sunny, clouds, rain, and warm.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

omg! after the picture perfect day yesterday, today was the totally opposite. the big news was the huge storm dumping rain all over the island. traffic everywhere!

so i leave the house and take the back roads around the traffic to waikiki. 15 minutes on the dot. all i wanted to do was get out of the crazy traffic so the best place was in the ocean! picked up Ambo-san and headed to the harbor.

we surfed in the thundering rain. it was raining so hard at one point that you couldn’t see anything. but hey, it’s only water right? this is the view to the beautiful diamond head. today, you couldn’t see it even if you tried your best.

we managed to get a good session in. super fun waves with only us out. want to thank Reid and Yuko-chan for giving Ambo-san every single wave he wanted. once again, he kept on paddling back out and saying “i’m so happy.” that makes us all happy too.

Ambo-san caught a years worth of waves in the past 3 days. i could see the pure stoke in him and i hope he enjoyed his hawaiian surf trip. have a safe flight out of hawaii and see you somewhere in this world! maybe Cancun or El Salvador again? we shall see.

this guy tried to steal this girls iPhone. but he chose the wrong girl. the girl happened to be a good MMA fighter so she tackled the guy and put him in a triangle choke hold until the police came. it was pretty funny watching him crying.

crazy to see all the refugee’s fleeing syria. they are pretty much running for their lives!!! and the sad thing is that no country is taking them in.

and when you see mothers and children this desperate, it gets even sadder. this world is becoming a crazy place to live.
more rain tonight, hurricanes, more storms, more flooding, and more waves. you probably got wet today but like my friend Holli says “it’s only water!”